английский - вопрос №471362

vvvvvvLast month, I finally realized a 10-year dream when I visited Malta and Gozo. 

Wanted to share my experiences with my fellow travelers, since I've gleaned a lot of useful tips from postings on this site and others.

First, let me just say that although it's quite a long haul from the United States (I took three planes, two cars and a ferry to reach my initial destination of Gozo) going there is absolutely worthwhile.

I went for many reasons.

For one thing, I had learned that there is virtually no crime in Malta and that it is perfectly safe for a female to walk around by herself, even at night. How many places in the world is that still true? I reveled in that freedom, walking or taking the public bus everywhere and never once feeling threatened in the least.

Also, I wanted to immerse myself in the history of the islands, which offer neolithic ruins believed to be the world's oldest as well as forts where the Knights of St. John kept the Turks from conquering Christendom.

But the most fascinating aspect of Malta for me is its legacy as the Allies' strategic base in the Mediterranean during World War II.

Nazi bombs pounded the island relentlessly for many months; the Maltese people endured so much that they received the George Cross from the British government for standing their ground (even though they almost starved to death because very few supplies got through to them in wartime).

I visited from Dec. 14 to Dec. 22. With a full day to travel there and another full day to travel back, that allowed me two nights in Gozo and five nights in Malta. Believe me, it wasn't enough!

At the suggestion of Walter Boden, the capable and highly personable part-owner of Academic Tours, I visited Gozo first. It was fantastic. I stayed at the Ta' Cenc (tah-CHENCH') Hotel and couldn't have been happier.

Others had advised me to stay at the Kempinski Hotel San Lawrenz, but I loved the atmosphere at the historic Ta' Cenc (peaceful and quiet and my room had French doors that opened onto a private patio surrounded by gardens). The service was impeccable; I had an exquisite meal at the hotel's gourmet restaurant and a first-class massage at the hotel spa. While in Gozo, I stopped by the San Lawrenz to take a peek, and although it was clean and classy it was also new and sterile. I was glad to stay in a hotel with more character.

On my own, I had e-mailed Xlendi Tours in Gozo about a week before I left to arrange a comprehensive drive around the island on my first full day (I found the Academic Tours price for this a bit too high). Jason Galea at Xlendi got back to me right away and booked exactly what I wanted at a very low price. Plus, my driver/guide, George, was great. This urbane and pleasant Gozitan gentleman took me to every place worth seeing and shared interesting tidbits about all of it. Turns out he had driven Sean Connery around Gozo not too long before!

For the shopaholics among you, I'll tell you about my bargains on Gozo. I bought a beautiful, heavy hand-knit wool fisherman's cardigan sweater (my Dad loved it) for US$30 and a stylish multicolored handmade shawl for US$20. I was even more excited about the farmhouse wine I found. The price was a jaw-droppingly-low US$2.50 a bottle and it was as good as any California chardonnay I've had. 

But, believe it or not, the Gozo purchase that I got most excited about was — SALT!

George had taken me to the salt pans (the Gozitans evaporate water from the Mediterranean to make their salt, which is considered almost medicinal) so of course I had to go to the grocery to get some. I bought three large bags for US $.45 each.

From Gozo, I crossed on the ferry to Malta, where I checked into the Victoria Hotel in Sliema for five nights. My biggest dilemma was trying to choose what to see in Malta, since there were so many options and a city bus system that would take me anywhere on the island that I wanted to go.

The Victoria Hotel was clean and comfortable with excellent service and food. The front desk helped with all of my questions and my maid was a sweetheart (she was genuinely touched to receive a small tip each day and thanked me profusely when I met her in the hallway).

On my last night, when nothing on the room service menu looked good to me any more, I walked down to the dining room and asked a waiter if I could order a non-room service meal and have it delivered to my room. He immediately agreed, then promptly and cheerfully brought exactly what I wanted (grilled prawns, vegetables, Malta bread and butter, and a berry tart). This was typical of the way the Maltese responded anytime I asked for something. They just couldn't seem to do enough.

I also liked how the bus stop and good shopping were a short stroll away from the Victoria.

The only problem I had at the hotel was that the hot water that came out of my bathroom faucets was a medium brown color for most of my stay. When I asked the hotel about it, they cited a «problem with the pipes» and said I should avoid drinking the water. I ended up buying bottled water, which I feel the hotel should have delivered free each day to all of its guests under the circumstances. That's the only snag I ran into at the Victoria, however.

My first sightseeing stop in Malta was Valetta, the walled city built by the Knights of St. John. I saw «The Malta Experience» (a fun and fascinating multimedia show), toured the Lascaris War Rooms (an underground complex where Allied generals commanded air and sea battles in WWII) and enjoyed lasagna and wine at a sidewalk cafe in the plaza near St. John's Co-Cathedral. Later, I walked around Upper Barraka Gardens (which has a stunning view of Grand Harbor) and had a cappucino at another sidewalk cafe. All were thoroughly pleasant experiences.